New world


We are in Jaffna. We might as well be in a different country than Sri Lanka. There are few similarities to our other life in Nuwara Eliya and even Colombo for that matter. It is unsettling to be confronted with so much unfamiliarity, when not expected. When a person travels to a different country, particularly one far from home, it is expected that things will not be the same. However, when a person travels within a country, especially such a tiny country, the striking changes are not expected. At least not by me, anyway.
Oh sure, I knew we were heading into a war torn area of the country. I knew the people were Tamil. I knew that this area had been largely closed off to the rest of the world for about 30 years, but I knew these things intellectually, rather than emotionally. I worked hard to learn Sinhala and to read the Sinhala alphabet and expected this to help navigate me in this new town. However, there are no Sinhala signs. All signage is in Tamil. Despite being a tri-lingual country, there is no English here either. I can't order a trishaw anymore, I can't read a sign, I can't read a menu and I can't find my way about the town; a maze of concrete walled houses and streets and tiny shop after tiny shop.
The people seem different too. I had grown accustomed to the Sinhala race and culture. Tamil people seem more abrupt, and yet more boisterous in their speech, actions and emotions. They are less infatuated with white folk. They appear to enjoy life more. As a race, their skin is generally much darker in color, whereas, Sinhala people are more of a range of color from quite fair to very dark. Clothing styles are similar for both men and women, although there are more shalwar kemeez worn here than in the south. Less English is spoken. I didn't realize the food was so going to be so different; Sinhala food is downright bland compared to the Tamil cuisine. It is not just the spicing that is different but different foods are cooked: dosais, pittu and more seafood. We had a mean prawn curry last night.
I didn't anticipate the old Morris Minor cars that must have come over in the 30's and I didn't anticipate the destruction and abandonment of so many homes. Although I knew we were leaving the mountains of Hill country, I didn't anticipate the isthmus landscape that is so very different from anything I have ever seen; like grand bird sanctuaries stretching for miles and miles. Jaffna has a population of over 500,000 people, so I didn't anticipate the lack of grand hotels or high rise buildings.
I had heard it was hot, but didn't anticipate such intense heat. Itty Bitty Blair is finally warm. His blankie has disappeared.

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