Uncoloured in a coloured country
Coloured/uncoloured are really misnomers in that all of us, other than albinos, have pigmentation in our skin and that pigmentation, over the centuries has caused great hardship to those who aren’t the right “colour” There are many reasons for discrimination, colour being only one of them.
In Sri Lanka we have ethnic origin, language, religion, caste and I’m sure a myriad of other differences by which one group distinguishes another group. Comments were once heard about a daughter being so beautiful and the mother in the presence of the daughter saying “Yes, but she is too dark”. Darkness may be associated with those people who work out in the sun and therefore are darker (tanned). They seem to be looked down on as being of lesser importance or not as good as those of lighter skin. In Canada it means something different as the tanned person has been able to afford a vacation away from home.
When Wendy and I walk down the street we get stared at by many people, mostly not in a threatening or sexualized way although there is some of that. We say hello and people, generally, smile and respond in kind. Only once in a while will they continue stare which could be a language difficulty on they just don’t want to say anything to us. On our walks young children run to get their brothers and sisters to yell, “ hello/goodbye/good morning/good night/how are you” or whatever they believe to be the appropriate greeting. It doesn’t matter if it is; they are so keen to be acknowledged by a foreigner or to try their language skills. We attend church and the young children seem so mesmerized by our uncolour they will continue to stare at us throughout the service.
The same happens when we walk or ride our bicycles or scooter but other comments also accompany their greeting such as, “where are you going/where are you from/Canada is good/ how is Sri Lanka. Good?” Positive comments about Canada are heard more often in Jaffna than the southern part of the country
Add to colour the fact that this was a colony until 60 years ago and things really get mixed up. Sri Lankans do not queue except when specifically directed and only then when they are continued to be watched. A Sri Lankan said it was because they were impatient. When standing in front of a teller in the bank or in the post office there is no such thing as a moment of privacy. People are crowded about 4 or 5 wide and 2 or 3 deep all pushing money or whatever toward the teller. All speaking at once.
But the teller, seeing a person of uncolour in the back of the line or maybe because the person is a foreigner (how do they know other than by colour or dress?), calls forward the uncoloured person to be dealt with first.
This is even more obvious in a store. I don’t think it is because they believe we have more money to spend but rather I think it is a continuation of the old colonial hierarchy. The other citizens seemed to accept that this is the way things are done. When I, the picked on person in the crowd stand embarrassed at being picked out, and suggest “no help those in front of me first”, it doesn’t happen. I am expected to go first and it appears expected and accepted by all. Clearly I am not suggesting it is accepted willingly but possibly accepted as just the way things are. Any protest by me just delays everyone getting their business done.
There is no such thing as being invisible. We stand out. We live in a fish bowl. A woman came up to us in Jaffna saying she lived in the same apartment block as we did. We finally figured out she lived in Colombo in an apartment block where we stayed for 3 weeks in October/November. She lived on a different floor and we had never spoken to her but she knew who we were.
When we lived in Mahagastota outside of Nuwara Eliya people in the community became familiar with us and knew much about us, where we were from, how long we had been in Sri Lanka, where Wendy worked, what I used to do before retirement and a lot of other information. We were obviously the source of many gossip sessions but I don’t think it was malicious gossip.
But what can one expect, especially in Jaffna a city isolated by distance, war, blocked off for a long time from the rest of Sri Lanka and only now open to foreigners. We are told many expats have already moved on to Kilinochchi (2-3 hours south) as that is where the majority of de-mining is presently taking place and the area with a greater need for services. In Jaffna there may be 20 foreign residents. That is the most liberal estimate I heard. There may be quite a few less.
We have not felt threatened in the community nor have we felt that we are at risk of being attacked physically or verbally for any reason including because we are foreigners and especially uncoloured foreigners. In fact, the attitude of the citizens of Jaffna has been most welcoming; more so when they hear Wendy is a volunteer and that we are from Canada, eh. They in turn tell of their brothers, sisters, other relatives or friends who live in Montreal or more likely in Ontario in Toronto, Scarborough or Mississauga. Some have moved back from Canada.
Colour although a concern isn’t a greater concern than the consequences of colonialism including colonial attitudes and standards that still exist. Religious intolerance and ethnicity play no small role. Some, and likely all, contribute in allowing the present political power system to continue. The question is for how long and the next question what group will remove the present government and will it be done democratically or by force?
Will the Sinhala and the Tamils be able to coexist in peace? Who knows? But it certainly would go a long way to cure the ills of the country. The Christian and Muslim minorities have to be thrown into that mix as well. I don’t think I heard, until I read in a book recently, that Prabhakaran (LTTE leader) directed all Muslims, all 70,000, to leave Jaffna in 2 or 3 hours taking only clothing, 500 Rupees, some gold and food saying everything else remained as it was the property of the Tamils. Today 500 Rupees is worth less than $5.00 Canadian.
Yes there are many issues still to be addressed. But if you think I have any second thoughts or regrets about coming to Sri Lanka and partly at least being a house husband you are sadly mistaken. I would not have missed this wonderful country and experience for anything. I say thank you for being given this most marvelous opportunity as we pass the half way point of our 2 year commitment. The adventure continues.
In Sri Lanka we have ethnic origin, language, religion, caste and I’m sure a myriad of other differences by which one group distinguishes another group. Comments were once heard about a daughter being so beautiful and the mother in the presence of the daughter saying “Yes, but she is too dark”. Darkness may be associated with those people who work out in the sun and therefore are darker (tanned). They seem to be looked down on as being of lesser importance or not as good as those of lighter skin. In Canada it means something different as the tanned person has been able to afford a vacation away from home.
When Wendy and I walk down the street we get stared at by many people, mostly not in a threatening or sexualized way although there is some of that. We say hello and people, generally, smile and respond in kind. Only once in a while will they continue stare which could be a language difficulty on they just don’t want to say anything to us. On our walks young children run to get their brothers and sisters to yell, “ hello/goodbye/good morning/good night/how are you” or whatever they believe to be the appropriate greeting. It doesn’t matter if it is; they are so keen to be acknowledged by a foreigner or to try their language skills. We attend church and the young children seem so mesmerized by our uncolour they will continue to stare at us throughout the service.
The same happens when we walk or ride our bicycles or scooter but other comments also accompany their greeting such as, “where are you going/where are you from/Canada is good/ how is Sri Lanka. Good?” Positive comments about Canada are heard more often in Jaffna than the southern part of the country
Add to colour the fact that this was a colony until 60 years ago and things really get mixed up. Sri Lankans do not queue except when specifically directed and only then when they are continued to be watched. A Sri Lankan said it was because they were impatient. When standing in front of a teller in the bank or in the post office there is no such thing as a moment of privacy. People are crowded about 4 or 5 wide and 2 or 3 deep all pushing money or whatever toward the teller. All speaking at once.
But the teller, seeing a person of uncolour in the back of the line or maybe because the person is a foreigner (how do they know other than by colour or dress?), calls forward the uncoloured person to be dealt with first.
This is even more obvious in a store. I don’t think it is because they believe we have more money to spend but rather I think it is a continuation of the old colonial hierarchy. The other citizens seemed to accept that this is the way things are done. When I, the picked on person in the crowd stand embarrassed at being picked out, and suggest “no help those in front of me first”, it doesn’t happen. I am expected to go first and it appears expected and accepted by all. Clearly I am not suggesting it is accepted willingly but possibly accepted as just the way things are. Any protest by me just delays everyone getting their business done.
There is no such thing as being invisible. We stand out. We live in a fish bowl. A woman came up to us in Jaffna saying she lived in the same apartment block as we did. We finally figured out she lived in Colombo in an apartment block where we stayed for 3 weeks in October/November. She lived on a different floor and we had never spoken to her but she knew who we were.
When we lived in Mahagastota outside of Nuwara Eliya people in the community became familiar with us and knew much about us, where we were from, how long we had been in Sri Lanka, where Wendy worked, what I used to do before retirement and a lot of other information. We were obviously the source of many gossip sessions but I don’t think it was malicious gossip.
But what can one expect, especially in Jaffna a city isolated by distance, war, blocked off for a long time from the rest of Sri Lanka and only now open to foreigners. We are told many expats have already moved on to Kilinochchi (2-3 hours south) as that is where the majority of de-mining is presently taking place and the area with a greater need for services. In Jaffna there may be 20 foreign residents. That is the most liberal estimate I heard. There may be quite a few less.
We have not felt threatened in the community nor have we felt that we are at risk of being attacked physically or verbally for any reason including because we are foreigners and especially uncoloured foreigners. In fact, the attitude of the citizens of Jaffna has been most welcoming; more so when they hear Wendy is a volunteer and that we are from Canada, eh. They in turn tell of their brothers, sisters, other relatives or friends who live in Montreal or more likely in Ontario in Toronto, Scarborough or Mississauga. Some have moved back from Canada.
Colour although a concern isn’t a greater concern than the consequences of colonialism including colonial attitudes and standards that still exist. Religious intolerance and ethnicity play no small role. Some, and likely all, contribute in allowing the present political power system to continue. The question is for how long and the next question what group will remove the present government and will it be done democratically or by force?
Will the Sinhala and the Tamils be able to coexist in peace? Who knows? But it certainly would go a long way to cure the ills of the country. The Christian and Muslim minorities have to be thrown into that mix as well. I don’t think I heard, until I read in a book recently, that Prabhakaran (LTTE leader) directed all Muslims, all 70,000, to leave Jaffna in 2 or 3 hours taking only clothing, 500 Rupees, some gold and food saying everything else remained as it was the property of the Tamils. Today 500 Rupees is worth less than $5.00 Canadian.
Yes there are many issues still to be addressed. But if you think I have any second thoughts or regrets about coming to Sri Lanka and partly at least being a house husband you are sadly mistaken. I would not have missed this wonderful country and experience for anything. I say thank you for being given this most marvelous opportunity as we pass the half way point of our 2 year commitment. The adventure continues.
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